 Modeling and texturing hints and tips |
Windy
Guardian
Registration Date: 02.11.2006
Posts: 59
Location: Never-Never Land
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Hmm, I just spotted this thread so I'm going to throw down the spam gauntlet.
@Arbiter:
My experience with extrusion modelling (more or less the same way
Heywood does it, bar some minor differences here and there) is that
they tend to produce fairly low-poly meshes. Certainly lower poly than
Bethesda's work, and if you take the time to trim them down a bit then
they can be quite low poly.
@Chrissloe:
For that pauldron, I'd have done it by using a square with a good
number of length/width/height segments (whichever are appropriate) and
then making the basic shape of the pauldron. From there, you can
extrude, or you can subdivide a face and then extrude part of it.
Alternatively you can create a separate part for the feathers and take
it from there. I've made a fair few meshes with pauldrons that are
shaped like that and I've found that squares work best. When you're
done with it rotate your view under and you can simply delete the faces
that aren't going to be shown (i.e. those that sit flush against the
body). As for feathers, depending on where they are, if they're the
kind of feathres where you will only be viewing them from certain
angles, consider doing it as a flat, 2D sheet separate from the main
pauldron mesh. Make sure the edge is relatively bumpy for the feathres,
but you don't need much detail in the sheet. from there, let the
texturers make the 'feather' effect with alpha and bump maps. That
tends to allow you to get more clumped and detailed feathers, hair,
etc. with less polys. For an idea of what I mean, take a look at Ren's
hair meshes, they're mostly alpha'd and surprisingly low poly.
@Maggon:
To my knowledge, the typical Oblivion armor mesh is around 10,000
polys, give or take. Weapons vary a bit but are a few hundred to a few
thousand polygons each. The polycount isn't a major deal for Oblivion
since the engine is by and large able to handle a few extra polys, as
long as they're there for a reason, I wouldn't really bother trying to
pare down polys at the expense of quality. Also, those numbers are
really fairly rough guides as far as I know.
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02.11.2006 10:18 |
   
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Chrissloe
Seigneur
Registration Date: 14.08.2006
Posts: 200
Location: Norway, ?lesund
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thanks windy, that is some great advice 
I'll try it after my g3 break 
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02.11.2006 10:30 |
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Windy
Guardian
Registration Date: 02.11.2006
Posts: 59
Location: Never-Never Land
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No worries. Keep in mind that technique tends to work best if you have
lots of bunched up feathers. I just took another look at the sketch. As
is I'd say it'd probably work best with separated and extruded feathers.
@Heywood:
Oh...edge loops...I've always just referred to them as contours.
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02.11.2006 10:38 |
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Azkur_pt
First Knight
Registration Date: 27.10.2006
Posts: 175
Location: Portugal
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hey man you realy remember my old theciniques and I use some of that
today too but now I like to work with hard surfaces making thins the
way I want without subdividing and as you caqn see I made that with the
tree house keep the good work and thx for the advices.....as for me I
use my own thecniques and I tryed to teach them to my friends but I
think they just cant be learned beacause my thecnicques were learned
over time and not from reading I could say that I learned by playing
around with shapes
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02.11.2006 19:50 |
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Windy
Guardian
Registration Date: 02.11.2006
Posts: 59
Location: Never-Never Land
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Everyone has their own way of doing things, occassionally I can't do
extrusion so I'll work directly with the vertices, but oh well.
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02.11.2006 23:21 |
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